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Rob and I were determined to squeeze in another trip before our respective departures from Nepal. Practical and wishful investigation lead us to Chitwan National Park. It was not only the obvious choice, but one that would take us to a new, personally-uncharted territory of this naturally diverse piece of the world. Nepal has three well defined geographical sections… The Mountain Region, the Hill Region and the Terai Region (sub-tropical lowlands), the latter of which we were venturing into for the first time… a flat mix of grassland and forest that boarders with North-East India. Noticeably hotter in the midst of vast stretches of open space, this was to be, as intended, a different experience than the previous trips we’d made.
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After eventually settling on a hotel and safari company/guide, we set off just after sun-up thwart the traditional canoes (simply carved from local trees)… The plan (in short) was to take the canoe up river for an hour, disembark, walk for 6/7 hours, exploring the forest and grasslands, making our way to a river-side village called Ghatgai and spend the first night there. The second day lead us south towards the Madi, a predominantly agricultural land of 90,000 inhabitants living in beautifully rural, traditional villages set amongst the flatlands that lie before the mountainous boarder with India.
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My trusty 4 footer… Not only does it help with balance when tackling dodgy bridges or river banks, serve as a general leaning post and superficially make you feel more ‘wild’, but it is more practically (and importantly) on our person in case we encounter a particularly aggressive Sloth Bear, among other potentially dangerous residents of Chitwan National Park. In such a case it would be used to hit the ground and intimidate the bear, while maintaining a group circle. And if all this failed, of course striking the animal would be the last resort.
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Daily Canoe Crossing… Entering and escaping these handmade tree carvings proved a tricky but not unsuccessful manoeuvre for this 6 foot 1, slightly heftily build Englishman. Though the water was teasing to enter the vessel as well, and with the knowledge of a recent fatal crocodile attack in these waters not one month ago, it wasn’t a totally stress-free commute.
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Two Tiger prints melded in the mud… Something that became an almost standard sighting for us. Still it never lost its impact on our conscious of wandering through the tiger’s natural habitat, knowing there was at least 192 tigers (last count) currently roaming the park. Elephant to scale… As you can imagine, they are mighty and majestic animals up close.
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This is where we even came close, nearly too close, to a Wild Elephant. Our guide, in the interest of our safety, retreated us to the nearby bridge as we heard it rustle away through the tall and aptly named Elephant Grass. Wild elephants are potentially the most dangerous animals for humans to encounter in Chitwan. We were told of a past tragedy, where an elephant made its way into a local village.The onrush of villagers surrounded the Elephant, unknowingly giving it no means for escape… resulting in the elephant reacting with fear fuelled aggression, killing 19 people. Tigers on the other hand are naturally very calm and timid creatures, and usually not a threat to humans if encountered.
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Madan : Our friendly, informative and approachable jungle guide of 12 years experience… I implore you to seek out this man if ever in need of a Chitwan guide.
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Passing elephants ridden by the local army on their way to the next post… The army have posts all over the park. They are there to keep the park poaching-free, and to check permits of visitors.
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As the sun began to flicker through the lower-canopy indicating evening was upon us and we duly reached the end of the forest. As the trees fell away to a rushing river, the Madi presented itself across the yonder landscape, in a calming golden dusk.
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After a refreshing frolic in the river it was just short bare-foot walk through grassy and sandy tracks to the location of our final night… The name defeats me, but the settlement itself was an idyllic scene of humble construction and peaceful untouched living. Live-stock roamed freely amongst the locals as went about their evening routines. The water pump and nearby kitchen being the primary focus of activity. We got stuck into these new and considered ways, washing our sweaty, dirt stained rags at the pump. Followed by a cooling and therapeutic bucket shower, my fragility exposed to nature’s elements… Not wanting to sound too darn hippie at this point, or any other… it was liberating.
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Our last movement was in the direction of the bridge, where we would catch a local bus back through the park, and eventually back around to Sauhara, completing our circle of adventure in Chitwan National Park… The highlight of which was our short-lived but triumphant roof-top ride through the forest, something we both had pondered possibility of and discreetly hoped to experience throughout the trip. Just another addition to the travel tapestry.
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LAMBOLENS 